Honest Bao

Another heatwave hits the UK, and my first thought isn't "beach day" but "cold noodles." Specifically, cold udon. I’ve been to Marugame before and was told they only serve it in the summer, which seemed odd. But after trying it, I get it—it's just a bit... average. Japanese Udon Chain Restaurant, image from Marugame I rolled up to the Argyll Street branch on a weekday afternoon, and it was blissfully quiet. Plenty of empty seats, no queues. I ordered the cold udon from their summer menu and loaded up on sides: a soft shell crab tempura, a karaage, a kakiage, and a soft-boiled egg. The total came to £16, which felt pretty fair for a big lunch in central London. Good tempura, horrible udon The cold udon itself was just okay. The noodles had a decent chew, but they were surprisingly coarse and rough, not the smooth, glossy udon I love. Maybe they’re using a different kind of flour? The real disappointment, though, was the broth. The chef seemed to have gone wil...